Monday, May 24, 2010

My puppy is still congested. He is on Clavamox but doesn't seem to be any better. Anyone else go through this?

My puppy is 3 months old. I was told when I bought him (from a pet store) that he had a bad cold and was taking amoxicillin. It was supposed to be taken for 2 wks but dont think the store gave me all of the medication. He still has alot of congestion in his nose and the vet prescribed Clavamox--1/2 pill 3 times a day. He is to be on that for 10 days and has a follow up appnt next week. After the 3rd day of taking this, he seemed much clearer in breathing and less congested. It has been 6 days into taking the medication and he now acts as though he's back where he started. His nose is sounding congested and thick secretions run out occasionally. He plays normally and eats normally. I was told it was an upper respiratory infection but was wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem and how long it took for the puppy to get better. Or did you find out that it was something else and needed different medications? What can I do to help his congestion? Thankyou!
I purchased a puppy from a pet store and they told me the exact same thing... upper respiratory infection, on meds, give it a week he'll be fine. Well when that week came where he was supposed to be "fine" I took him to my vet instead of the pet stores vet (they cant be trusted) and he had a fever of 106.7. Dogs start getting brain damage at 106.0. They treated him as an emergency and put him on IV fluids. He had to stay over night. During the night my vet called and told me he had stopped breathing and they had to pump his chest to resuscitate him. He made it through the next two days and by then we could take him home. At about 10 that night he started walking funny. I'm a vet student so I knew that this was a neurological problem. By the next morning he couldnt walk. We worked his legs all day till he was walking again. That night his fever broke again and we rushed him to the emergency vet. He began seizuring in the car very violently. We got to the vet and they put another IV in and put in a fluid to stop the seizure. This lasted 20 min. till another seizure came on and the vet came in to tell us he wasnt going to come out of the seizure and that he was suffering. We gave permission to put our little baby down.He died of distemper, a fatal dog virus. Early the next morning we went to the pet store and demanded our money back and all the vet bills paid. They told us there was nothing they could do because we broke our contract guarantee by going to our vet. We are now in the process of a major law suit which I dont intend to lose. I will tell you to go to a reputible vet and get him thoroughly examined. Hopefully you will not suffer the same fate as we did. Good luck!

The puppy in this story was a Dogue de bordeaux and was purchased at Petland.
It's quite possible the mucous you're seeing is what his sinuses are dumping now that the infection is coming under control. If he feels great and has an appetite it's unlikely the illness is becoming resistent to the treatments. I would still update your veterinarian on the changes, and make sure all this internet advice you're getting doesnt lead you astray. If you trust your vet, you should always ask them for medical advice.
Does he have allergies maybe? I have to give my dog benedryl but you would need to use a children's does on a puppy.
Your first problem was that you purchased him from a pet store and he is 99% likely to have come from a puppy mill where the breeders could careless about anything then profit.
Dogs are kept in small cages living in their own feces, never see the light of day, stacked cage after cage in filth for profits only.
It's hard to say what is ailing ths pup but you may wish to seek a holistic vet for him to try something else as conventional medicine doesn't appear to be helping..
Clavomox is an excellent antibiotic but might be the wrong one. The vet needs to take a sample of the infectious material and send it off to a lab so that he can find out exactly what type of antibiotic is needed to fix this.
Has there been a diagnosis?
Check for a Holistic vet in your area and PLEASE do not allow any vet to give this dog any vaccines... Please tell me this has not been done since the onset of this problem?
A quick call to your vet is in order. Tell them what goin gon with your pup and see if they may want to check him out sooner. Clavamox is an excellent antibiotic, and it seems that it is doing it job. Your pups may just be expelling all the mucus he had built up in his sinus's, I really can't say.
A call to your vet I think is the very best way to really get the answer your looking for.
A quick call to your vet is in order. Tell them what goin gon with your pup and see if they may want to check him out sooner. Clavamox is an excellent antibiotic, and it seems that it is doing it job. Your pups may just be expelling all the mucus he had built up in his sinus's, I really can't say.
A call to your vet I think is the very best way to really get the answer your looking for.

My puppy is still biting and it REALLY hurts! I've tried everything! Please help!?

I got my puppy when he was only 5 weeks old (a lady was going to take them to a shelter if she didn't get rid of them) and after about the 1st week home, he's been play biting- I have tried from the beginning to teach him that it's not acceptable by doing the yelping-and-ignoring-him routine, holding his mouth shut after he bites, spraying with water, spanking, thumping on the nose... and NOTHING has helped. What's even worse is now he's 12 weeks old and his biting is getting increasingly more painful- I have bruises, cuts and scratches all over my legs, feet, hands and arms now from his biting. I love him, but I don't know what to do! Please help!!
firstly, dont hold his mouth closed. this can severely stress a dog and cause breathing problems, you could also cause him to bite his tongue which will be painful and dangerous for him.

puppies do bite and chew things.. its necessary for teething and socialisation.
you need to teach him to associate his biting with his toys - not your arm.
have a toy with you all the time, and every single time he tries to bite, say NO and put the toy in his mouth for him to chew on.
if he is particularly bad in certain circumstances, like when you are playing with him, then you need to slow down and look for signs that he is getting too rough or over excited and might bite. also, dont pay with him in ways that encourage his biting you. wrestling him with your had might be fun, but obviously he will try to bite it. use a toy instead.
If he had stayed with his mother and/or siblings they would teach him not too do that.

What worked with the dogs I've had was gently but firmly grabbing their necks and holding them on the floor for a few seconds, every single time he does that. The mother dog would do that with her mouth. If you don't stop it now, it will get worse when he's bigger.

Another suggestion would be to let him be around older dogs, and they would teach him some manners as well.
hmmm well what type of dog is he? like if it's part of the hearding group they are still going to bite you. Becuase that's what they are meant to do. Or if there not then I would go ask your vet or ask the shelter which you got your dog from if the past owner said anything about it's over bitting
direct and dominant consequence, put him to the floor and then ignore him. physical and emotional domination
This is something he will outgrow, but I know that doesn't help you much now.
When he grabs your arm (or hand or whatever), tell him NO firmly and give him something he is allowed to chew on, then praise him immediately. Don't thump him on the nose, as this will actually encourage him to bite at you because he'll think you're playing.
He's teething hun, just like a baby. Get him some toys designed to help with teething. When he bites and it hurts yelp in a high pitched voice. It'll sound like another puppy when playing has gone too far. Smack him lightly on the nose.
The Bite Stops Here
By Dr. Ian Dunbar

Puppies bite, and thank goodness they do. Puppy biting is a normal and natural puppy behavior. In fact, it is the pup that does not mouth and bite much as a youngster that augers ill for the future. Puppy play-biting is the means by which dogs learn to develop bite inhibition, which is absolutely essential later in life.

The combination of weak jaws with extremely sharp, needle-like teeth and the puppy penchant for biting results in numerous play-bites which, although painful, seldom cause serious harm. Thus, the developing pup receives ample necessary feedback regarding the force of its bites before it develops strong jaws 鈥?which could inflict considerable injury. The greater the pup鈥檚 opportunity to play-bite with people, other dogs and other animals, the better the dog鈥檚 bite inhibition as an adult. For puppies that do not grow up with the benefit of regular and frequent interaction with other dogs and other animals, the responsibility of teaching bite inhibition lies with the owner.

Certainly, puppy biting behavior most eventually be eliminated: we cannot have an adult dog playfully mauling family, friends and strangers in the manner of a young puppy. However, it is essential that puppy biting behaviour is gradually and progressively eliminated via a systematic four-step process. With some dogs, it is easy to teach the four phases in sequence. With others, the puppy biting may be so severe that the owners will need to embark on all four stages at once. However, it is essential that the pup first learn to inhibit the force of its bites before the biting behaviour is eliminated altogether.

Inhibiting the force of bites

No painful bites The first item on the agenda is to stop the puppy bruising people. It is not necessary to reprimand the pup and, certainly, physical punishments are contra-indicated, since they tend to make some pups more excited, and insidiously erode the puppy鈥檚 temperament and trust in the owner. But it is essential to let the pup know when it hurts. A simple "ouch!" is usually sufficient. The volume of the "ouch" should vary according to the dog鈥檚 mental make-up; a fairly soft "ouch" will suffice for sensitive critters, but a loud "OUCH!!!" may be necessary for a wild and woolly creature. During initial training, even shouting may make the pup more excited, as does physical confinement. An extremely effective technique with boisterous pups is to call the puppy a "jerk!" and leave the room and shut the door. Allow the pup time to reflect on the loss of its favourite human chew toy immediately following the hard nip, and then return to make up. It is important to indicate that you still love the pup 鈥?it is the painful bites which are objectionable. Instruct the pup to come and sit, and then resume playing. Ideally, the pup should have been taught not to hurt people well before it is three months old.

It is much better for the owner to leave the pup than to try to physically restrain and remove it to a confinement area at a time when it is already out of control. If one pup bites another too hard, the bitee yelps and playing is postponed while the injured party licks its wounds. The biter learns that hard bites curtail an otherwise enjoyable play session. Hence, the bite learns to bite more softly when the play session resumes.

No jaw pressure at all The second stage of training is to eliminate bite pressure entirely, even thought the bites no longer hurt. When the puppy is munching away, wait for a nibble that is harder than the rest and respond as if it really hurt: "Ouch, you worm! Gently! That hurt me you bully!" The dog begins to think "Good Lord! These humans are so mamby pamby I鈥檒l have to be really careful when mouthing their delicate skins." And that鈥檚 precisely what we want the dog to think 鈥?so he鈥檒l be extremely careful when playing with people. Ideally, the puppy should no longer be exerting any pressure when mouthing by the time it is four to five months old.

Inhibiting the incidence of mouthing

Always stop mouthing when requested: Once the puppy has been taught to gently mouth rather than bite, it is time to reduce the frequency of mouthing behaviour and teach the pup that mouthing is okay until requested to stop. Why? Because it is inconvenient to try to drink a cup of tea, or to answer the telephone, with 50 pounds of pup dangling from your wrist, that鈥檚 why.

It is better to first teach the "OFF!" command using a food lure (as demonstrated in the Sirius video*). The deal is this: "If you don鈥檛 touch this food treat for just two seconds after I softly say "Off", I will say "Take it" and you can have the treat." Once the pup has mastered this simple task, up the ante to three seconds of non-contact, and then five, eight, 12, 20 and so on. Count out the seconds and praise the dog with each second: "Good dog one, good dog two, good dog three鈥?quot; and so forth. If the pup touches the treat before being told to take it, shout "Off!" and start the count from zero again. The pup quickly learns that it can not have the treat until it has not touched it for, say, eight seconds 鈥?the quickest way to get the treat is not to touch it for the first eight seconds. In addition, the regular handfeeding during this exercise helps preserve the pup鈥檚 soft mouth.

Once the pup understnads the "Off!" request, it may be used effectively when the puppy is mouthing. Say "Off!" and praise the pup and give it a treat when it lets go. Remember, the essence of this exercise is to practise stopping the dog from mouthing 鈥?each time the pup obediently ceases and desists, resume playing once more. Stop and start the session many times over. Also, since the puppy wants to mouth, the best reward for stopping mouthing is to allow it to mouth again. When you decide to stop the mouthing session altogether, heel the pup to the kitchen and give it an especially tasty treat.

If ever the pup refuses to release your hand when requested, shout "Off!", rapidly extricate your hand and storm out of the room mumbling, "Right. That鈥檚 done it, you jerk! You鈥檝e ruined it! Finish! Over! No more!" and shut the door in the dog鈥檚 face. Give the pup a couple of minutes on its own and then go back to call the pup to come and sit and make up. But no more mouthing for at least a couple of hours.

In addition to using "Off!" during bite inhibition training, the request has many other useful applications: not to touch the cat, the Sunday roast on the table, the table, the baby鈥檚 soiled diapers, the baby, an aggressive dog, a fecal deposit of unknown denomination鈥?Not only does this exercise teach the "Off!" request, but also to "Take it" on request.

Never start mouthing unless requested: By the time the pup is five months old, it must have a mouth as soft as a 14-year-old working Lab; it should never exert any pressure when mouthing, and the dog should immediately stop mouthing when requested to do so by any family member. Unsolicited mouthing is utterly inappropriate from an older adolescent or an adult dog. It would be absolutely unacceptable for a six-month-old dog to approach a child and commence mouthing her arm, no matter how gentle the mouthing or how friendly and playful the dog鈥檚 intentions. This is the sort of situation which gives parents the heebie-jeebies and frightens the living daylights out of the mouthee. At five months of age, at the very latest, the dog should be taught never to touch any person鈥檚 body 鈥?not even clothing 鈥?with its jaws unless specifically requested.

Whether or not the dog will ever be requested to mouth people depends on the individual owner. Owners that have the mental largesse of a toothpick quickly let play-mouthing get out of control, which is why many dog training texts strongly recommend not indulging in games such as play-fighting. However, it is essential to continue bite inhibition exercises, otherwise the dog鈥檚 bite will begin to drift and become harder as the dog grows older. For such people, I recommend that they regularly hand-feed the dog and clean its teeth 鈥?exercises that involve the human hand in the dog鈥檚 mouth. On the other hand, for owners who have a full complement of common sense, there is no better way to maintain the dog鈥檚 soft mouth than by play-fighting with the dog on a regular basis. However, to prevent the dog from getting out of control and to fully realize the many benefits of play-fighting, the owner must play by the rules and teach the dog to play by the rules. (Play-fighting rules are described in detail in our Preventing Aggression behaviour bookelt.*)

Play-fighting teaches the dog to mouth hands only (hands are extremely sensitive to pressure) and never clothing. Since shoelaces, trousers and hair have no neurons and cannot feel, the owner cannot provide the necessary feedback that the dog is once more beginning to mouth too hard. The game also teaches the dog that it must adhere to rules regarding its jaws, regardless of how worked up it may be. Basically, play-fighting teaches the owner to practice controlling the dog when it is excited. It is important to refine such control in a structured setting, before a real-life situation occurs.

In addition, play-fighting quickly becomes play-training. Starting the games with a training period, i.e., with the dog under control in a down-stay, produces utterly solid stays at a time when the dog is excited in vibrant anticipation of the game. Similarly, frequent stopping the game for short periods and integrating multiple training interludes (especially heel work and recalls) into the game motivates the dog to provide eager and speedy responses. Each time the owner stops the game, he or she may use the resumption of play as a reward for bona fide obedience. Everything鈥檚 fun!

Potential problems

Inhibiting incidence before force: A common mistake is to punish the pup in an attempt to get it to stop biting altogether. At the best, the puppy no longer mouths those family members who can effectively punish the dog but, instead, the pup directs its mouthing sprees toward those family members who cannot control it, e.g., a child. To worsen matters, parents are often completely unaware of the child鈥檚 plight because the pup does not mouth adults. At worst, the puppy no longer mouths people at all. Hence, its education about the force of its bite stops right there. All is fine until someone accidentally shuts the car door on the dog鈥檚 tail, whereupon the dog bites and punctures the skin, because the dog had insufficient bite inhibition.

Puppies that don鈥檛 bite: Shy dogs seldom socialize or play with other dogs or strangers. Hence, they do not play-bite and hence, they learn nothing about the power of their jaws. The classic case history is of a dog that never mouthed or bit as a pup and never bit anyone as an adult 鈥?that is, until an unfamiliar child tripped and fell on the dog. The first bite of the dog鈥檚 career left deep puncture wounds, because the dog had developed no bite inhibition. With shy puppies, socialization is of paramount importance, and time is of the essence. The puppy must quickly be socialized sufficiently, so that it commences playing (and hence, biting) before it is four-and-a-half months old.

If a puppy does not frequently mouth and bite and/or does not occasionally bite hard, it is an emergency. The puppy must learn its limits. And it can only learn its limits by exceeding them during development and receiving the appropriate feedbacks.

this is exactly what i did with my pit bull, now shes almost 2, and even if i get her all excited, and start messing with her with my hands, she wont bite my hands. shell open her mouth, and i can put my hand in it, but she wont bite down. if she closes her mouth even a little bit, i say ;''no biting'' and she licks my hand.
Do not ever, ever spack or thump your dog on the nose. This will not work. When he nips or bites, scream "Yike!" as loudly as you can, and then leave the room immediately. Dogs learn by repetition and a few reps of this will help the dog to learn. Be consistent and keep at this. Striking your dog is cruel and will not teach him anything.
When he goes to bite - put your fingers down his throat so he gags - Don't say anything - he will soon assiciate biting with gaging so that will stop him mouthing. Also make him work for his food - buy a kong and place the food inside so he has to work at it to get the food out. You should take him to dog school. Good luck. Puppies are hard work but if you teach him now he will become a good dog.
get some rawhide bones it will help the teasing!
my dog did that so i know!
he will bite on my fingers as long as he can and it hurts really bad because he has sharpe teeth
also get some toys that he or she can chew on it will help a lot
get some bitter apple spray at pet mart
so when your dog does something bad u spray him and they will stop after u keep doing it because it is really bitter
12 weeks old still young and all pups love biting. I know this sounds cruel but i BIT BACK to my dogs when they did and they stop. I normaly did that around their noses and hard enough to make them cry few times. this is how i trained my 2 pit bulls not to bite. now they are very calm but playful, and most of the time i dont feel like im having pit bulls at all.

My puppy is possesive. HELP!?

I have a 1.5 year old boy and girl puppy. when i give them a bone, the boy is normal and i can take the bone away from him without annoying him, however with the girl she growls when ANYONE goes near her. if i try to take the bone away she barks, growls and bites VERY badly. we have tried spraying water and vinegar at her if she growls but it doesn't work. WHAT SHOULD I DO!!??
Never tolerate growling. This is a threat and it means your dog sees you as a subordinate meant to be dominated by him. Tell him No! Let him know it is not acceptable to EVER growl at you or your children. Make it clear that your children are the offspring of his Alpha leader (you) and that they are to be treated as Alpha "pups."

Do not let your dog walk through the door first. If your dog always goes ahead of you, you need to get your leash and open the door. When he rushes ahead you pull him back and tell him "No. Wait. " You walk in and then give him permission to come in. This will be easier and faster if you have someone help you.

Do not let your dog sleep in the same bed as you. This is a definite Alpha position. If you just can't be without your dog in the bed, at the very least you need to make sure he sleeps at the foot of the bed. A doggie bed on the floor beside you is your best bet for maintaining Alpha position. (this rule is for aggressive dogs or dogs showing signs they are forgetting their place... A pet that is well behaved and obedient can sleep next to you or your child)

Socialize, socialize, socialize. I cannot stress enough the importance of introducing your dog to different places and people. Find something to do with your dog. Join and agility or obedience class. Take your dog to the park. If you have a laid back dog or puppy share your time with the local nursing home. Volunteer with disability groups so children and adults with special needs can enjoy the non-judgmental love a dog or puppy can provide.

Do not let your dog ride in your lap in the car. Make him sit in his own seat or on the floor. It is unsafe for you and your dog. Buy him his own seat belt or safety booster or use a kennel. Some states will give you a ticket for being a distracted driver.

Do not baby your dog too much. He needs to learn to be a dog. Do not over-protect him. He needs to explore and learn to be independent. You do not want to raise a flighty, paranoid dog. When he acts afraid of something that he should not be afraid of, do not pick him up and ooh and ahh over him. Simply tell him it is okay, and show him the object, person, etc. Your confidence will make him a confident and dependable dog. If you feed his imaginary fears, he will become a snappy and untrustworthy dog. He may develop fear aggression. An example of fear aggression could be a dog that sits in its owner's lap and growls at people or other animals. If you pet him, and tell him "It's okay." You are really telling him this is the type of behavior you expect of him, and he will continue to do it because there is a reward attached to it. Tell him no and put him down off your lap. While some owners think it is sweet that their little lap dog is "protecting them," it is not. When a child reaches to pet the dog or hug Grandma it could bite them if it is allowed to get away with this antisocial behavior. This is a dog that has taken on Alpha position and you are a subordinate. I have seen so many children chastised when they get bitten, when it's the owner that is responsible. You will often hear people say "Now, you know Granny's dog doesn't like you to go near her. She is jealous, and protective. We have told you over and over not to do that." What a shame. And it could all be avoided if we would just take the time to learn canine behavior. As much as we would like to believe that they think like us, they do not.

And when she starts to be a good little girl again, you can be sweet to her again.

I got my information from
i dunno. watch a whole bunch of dog whisperer episodes or buy his book and do what he would.
Dog whisperer to the rescue.
take her to a veterinarian, unfortunately i dont think thats curable :(, ive seen shows on animal planet where they do those test with a rubber hand, and when the dog keeps biting, they put them to sleep :(, sham on em,
You have to show your pet that you are the boss.
I guess you get my point.
I would say, contact a professional behavoirist. The simple answer is, that is a problem that can not be dealt with easily.

Food aggression is a serious issue, and as a previous Answerer said, in animal shelters dogs that show that sort of aggression are often put down because of the difficulties in correcting that sort of problem. It often translates into other aggression issues, and can escalate into a kind of trouble NOBODY wants to think about.

Talk to your vet. They should have contacts to behaviorists, or to someone who can get you in contact with someone.
never spry ur dog with vinegar.give her food and let her alone when she is eating.
If she acts this way, avoid giving her raw hides and bones.
Google : Nothing In Life is Free and use that to help establish that you are in charge. If you don't correct her in the right way you can make her worse.

Make her earn everything till she's better. No couches, human beds or treats. Lots of exercise and training. Food when she earns it. Treats sparingly when she earns them.

I too would suggest Cesar Millan's book and show.

Also google for a local obed. club and consider taking her to class.

Spay and neuter both of them if they aren't already.

My puppy is not looking so well?

my 7 week old puppy is been peeing in an unusal way instead of pee it comes out in blobs of pee what can i do?
Very simple take it to the vet. Dont wait for people to tell you that, common sense says a trip to the vet is in order.
Bring him to the Vet asap. that is not something to wait on. Even if you have to pay emergency fees. A dog is like having a kid, your it's ONLY way to be healthy.
That is something you SERIOUSLY need to take the puppy to the vet for. IMMEDIATELY.
Turn off the freaking confuser and get that pup to a vet!!

Quit wasting time!!
You should take it to the vet it is unusual thing to happen.

MY Puppy is not eating much of his current food any ideas on other brands of 'puppy' food?

My 4 month old Jack Russel is on Science Plan food (the expensive stuff lol) He doesn't really like it I don't know any other puppy foods thats good for a small young dog. I prefer complete food but I dont know if its safe to put him on adult food yet or keep hunting because he is loosing his appitite. Also I am not feeding him on left overs or too many treats so I'm not sure why he isn't eating!
There's no need for him to be on Science Plan but don't let your puppy dictate to you what he eats - you'll make him into a fussy dog! Give him his food at set times, give him 10 minutes to eat it %26 then take it up until his next meal time. It may just be that you are giving him too much. I don't feed complete, but find a food that suits your dog %26 your pocket %26 stick to it. Don't buy the really cheap stuff which is just full of cereal fillers, but you don't necessarily need the really expensive stuff either. If you bought your pup from a breeder, find out what they fed their dog on.
God that stuff is expensive.. bet your vet recommended it.. money grabbing.people.

Our puppy eats the cheap complete dog food from asda, they also do a puppy one aswel! Its not really harmful for a puppy to be fed adult dog food, i think puppy good as alot more vitamins in, and helps them grow better, and provides more energy. But our dogs fine with the cheap stuff.

Because he is only small dog why not try Dog meat instead of dry food? We have a Rottie so we feed him dry food because it would be too expensive to feed him cans! Hed need a hell of a lot!

Also when my dog was little, he wouldnt eat hard dry food, as i think it was much too crunchy for his little teeth! the breeder said that we should mix the dry food with water (not sure what brand it is that you can do this with)

Id try meat!
look for the nutro brand dog food. if u do decide to try it make sure u slowly make the switch and dont just start feeding the new food. if changing food doesnt work, take ur dog to vet cause it might be something more serious.
If you want to switch his food, why not try one of the very best brands - Canidae All Life Stages (good for puppies, too), Solid Gold, Innova, Wellness, Timberwolf Organics. If you switch his food, you need to do it gradually or he'll get diarrhea. Start out with only about 10% of the new food, and increase it each day so you take about 10 -14 days to totally switch him to his new food. Once you find one, you need to stick with it - no healthy dog will starve himself.
We fed our dog Winalot puppy food when he was little. He was brought up on Bakers complete puppy food but as soon as we introduced canned meat he turned his nose up at dry food! These days (he's 7 now) he has Winalot or Pedigree chum cans.
Make him special homemade food, NOT TABLE SCRAPS!! Use lightly cooked beef or chicken, some vegetables(my dog loves carrot and peas)and a very very small amount of puppy milk to make it more moist.
Try Bakers complete - there is a puppy option. My dog liked his puppy food but went off the junior version (can't remember which one it was now). However, a colleague at work suggested Bakers and for the first time, he tucked straight in!. For an extra treat and to stimulate your pups appetite, try popping half of a pedigree puppy pouch in his food. My dog likes the Bakers chicken and vegetables favour - that's his favourite.
My puppy - chocolate lab has beta puppy as recommended by our vet. Its not the cheapest but alot cheaper than the one your using. And he loves it
I really like Wellness puppy. Don't put him on adult food yet. He needs the extra calories, protein, and calcium. Is he not eating or not eating very much? If his weight is being maintained and his vet thinks he is a good weight I wouldnt worry too much.
Give him some tripe, they love it
Makes me feel sick but the dogs cannot get enough
That food IS expensive but just because it is expensive it does not mean it is any good, someone on here actually done research on it or something but can not remeber who it was.

Do you just feed meal or do you mix anything in it? Dogs get bored of the taste just like we do.

I feed mine james well beloved you can get puppy/junior/adult I would not advise to feed adult food at the moment.

Get a bag of that it comes in 3 different sizes small bag about 拢6 always try the small bags 1st that way you dont waste your money if it doesn't like it.

Then I would mix in some scrambled egg with a little bit of cheese, or tuna in oil, drain the oil %26 give it little bit of the tuna or puppy meat, try to stay away from pedigree if you can help it. I also get bags of frozen chicken %26 boil it cut into small pieces do will get it appetite back no problem
My dog was incredibly underweight and hardly ate also when he was on that food. I switched him to Iams, (I know it's bad NOW) and he still didn't eat and stayed underweight. I switched him to Nutro Ultra (as someone suggested you try) and he loved it. He gained weight and then leveled off at his ideal weight. His coat was healthy and his teeth were clean. Also, there was less poop to clean out of my yard.
I switched to Canidae All Life Stages -in light of all the recalls- and my dog has improved more. He was wonderfully healthy and happy before, but now it is just ridiculous. He eats less with Canidae too. I would suggest you try Canidae. It is wonderful food. They don't sell it at chain pet stores, you have to get it at a feed store.
You shouldn't feed him adult dog food until he is about a year, but Canidae has an All Life Stages formula that would be perfect for your puppy. Also, Wellness is good...
or you should try something from Natura.
Good Luck!
Why are you feeding a puppy on science plan food. Try pedigree chum puppy meat and a mixer with it. Dont put him on adult food as it will be too rich for him. also please dont give him anything else ie treats or left overs. you should feed him 4 times a day and try varing his diet. scrambled egg in the morning, complete biscuit at lunch and maybe rice pudding at tea time and then the complete buscuit at supper. If in doubt ask your vet
are you feeding him meat if so stop and give him drymix i have to puppes thay are on drymix and thay love it mack shore there is a lot of walter down he will not eat alot but he will eat when he whonts to eat
bakers complete puppy is good but if his not eating you should take him to the vets just to be on the safe side.
Try avoiding anything with corn or wheat listed in the top 2 it can be irritating to their skin...thus people believeing their pets have fleas when they really do not. Other then that, try to buy the cheapest stuff you can find...dogs can't read mind you.
Our little CKCS is fed on James Welbeloved, he loves it and I know it;s good for him. As a treat he'll have a little meat in with it.

DONT feed Bakers. It;s full of junk and crap it would be like giving your kids smarties for dinner.

Go here this is a great dog owner forum.

My puppy is humping?

Hi there well as i said before i just got a puppy a boston terrier .He was sick for a week and left him at the vet for 3 days per the vet he came home a little mean and he is humping everything is that normall for a 2 month old puppy?>
My pup, around that same age, started doing that when we got another dog. I thought he did it because he was excited, as he stopped after a couple days. He may be still not feeling good or frustrated that he was away from you for 3 days, or maybe he is excited to be home. I'm not sure at 2 months humping would be a dominance thing. I would check with my vet just to be sure though.
Showing his dominance... he must have had to barking in his crate while at the vet. It's an alpha male thing
yeah he is frustrated.maybe if he keeps on you could get him castrated.if you dont want to then get him out more occupy his mind
I saw a female dog humping a cat on Saturday so yes -- sounds normal to me!

It is about dominance...not sex.
Well... 8 week old puppy humping everything?? Never seen it in a puppy that young. They'll climb on one another's back, occasionally, but actual humping.. Haven't seen it that young at all. Maybe he was caged beside someone who gave him some nasty ideas...

My puppy is having diarrhea, what should I do?

She's 12 weeks old %26 has been having diarrhea %26 loose stool for the past few days. Should I stop giving her food for a day %26 just give her water?
Hi there I am a Veterinarian Technician and hope to help! Congratulations on your new puppy!! How exciting!!! There are two things I suggest you do. First, please collect a stool sample (plastic bags are just fine!) and bring it to your vet for them to run an in-house fecal exam for parasites AND a Giardia Snap-Test. It should cost you no more than $25 and you should know the results in about 10-20 minutes. In the mean time it is best to fast your puppy for 24 hours. No food, no treats, no bones, no toys she can break pieces off of. Offer her water often so she does not get dehydrated. Puppies and dogs need a full 24 hours to rid the body of diahrrea. Once the 24 hours is up, I recommend feeding her a bland-diet. You can either pick up some Canine I/D at your vet or (if you don't mind cooking!) you can make chicken and rice or hamburg and rice. Please rinse off ALL the fat before boiling (you should boil the chicken/hamburg and the rice in the same pot). You feed this bland-diet until your puppy has a solid bowel movement. If your puppy is still having diahrrea after fasting for 24 hours then call your Vet and let him'her know what is going on. They will most likely prescribe Metronidazole. Metronidazole is a medication that you will pair with a bland-diet (again) to get rid of the loose stool. I hope this helps! Good luck!
You should call your vet. Puppies can dehydrate very quickly. You need to bring her in and see why she is having the diarrhea.
any throwing up, check her for parvo
You should take her to the vet, since it's been going on for a few days. A one time deal would've been no real cause for concern. She might have parasites, parvo, posioning (although that usually results in throwing up) or something.
Try chicken stock and cooked rice -- the stock will give her nutrients and the rice will 'bind her back up'. Do this for about 5 days -- BUT if she does not stop the diarrhea within a day or so, please take her to the Vet. Could be a number of things. Did you change her food brand?
Cooked rice/rice water. Will soothe the stomach and will help her from getting dehydrated. You should be mindfull of parvo. It may be necessary to take the pup to a vet. I had a pup die from parvo. It is very fast acting.
Hello, you can try that for a day or two, plain old white rice water is also good to use, then slowly add in the rice if that works for another day or 2..but with puppies, it's often new foods or worms, they often have worms from the nursing %26 you have to check FRESH stools to see the worms, then your best bet is too see the vet, some worms can be deadly to dogs, that have to be diagnosed first by a vet .. also dogs can be given pepto bismal...small dogs half a tab every 12 hours for only a day..also check to see if the puppy is chewing on anything or any plants it shouldn't..beings they chew just about anything they can..Take Care :)
Call your vet; they will probably want to see her. Could be start of parvo.
You should not stop feeding her, but you may need to change what you feed her. You definitely need to take her to the vet soon. She could dehydrate on you making her even worse. Puppies dehydrate quickly, so act fast.
Take her to the vet.
At that age they do not have enough reserves to keep them going for days without food. I would get her to the vets as soon as possible for some IV fluids and any other treatment that may be needed. Starving an adult dog if it has an upset tum is often all it needs to allow the tummy to settle but you need to find out what the underlying cause is here. Has the pup had any shots yet?
see your vet diarrhoea can kill a pup.he will prob give it canakur which you can buy on Internet a lot cheaper.they usually tell you boiled rice n chicken no milk lots of water
With puppies they can become critical very very quickly, I would normally seek out a vet within 24 hours of Big D starting, with pups yo son't want to stop teeding
get her to a vet so they can determine why she has
Yes you need to get the little one to the vet,it could be parvo
or somekind of worm ,being that he's a puppy you shouldn't wait.They have a very hard time fighting things off after they get sick.Oh I do wish you the best of LUCK with it,I'm such
an animal lover,good Luck.
are u feeding her twice a day if you are not you should and give her water twice a day too let her in at night and if this does not help take her to the vet urgently
and try feeding her Bil Jac dog food