So, my 15 (or older) chihuahua that I rescued 10 years ago is starting to go downhill, Im afraid. When I feed him I separate him from all the other dogs because he eats soft food for becasue he hardly has any teeth (he was like that when I adopted him) He usually is a slow eater but I bring over one dog and out of fear that the other might eat his food he gobbles it up. Now, just recently, he has started laying next to his food growling like crazy and not eating hardly. I can barelly get him to eat over half of his meal. Is there something wrong? I know it is not physical because he recently got checked out. I think he might be losing his mind. I love him sooooo much but I am afraid at how old he is.
Answers:
At 15 or more years of age, I'm afraid your old pal is coming to the end of his road.
What does your vet have to say about his general condition?
Do all you can to make his last days comfortable, and when the time comes, try not to be too selfish. Let the old fellow walk off the stage with a little dignity intact. Don't make him suffer because you don't have the heart to show mercy.
Twice in the past 7 years I've had to hold a dear friend as the vet ended their suffering. Their ashes are sitting at the head of my bed. So I have an idea how you are feeling.
Doc
wow 10 years! i used to have a chihuahua. that was 6 years ago when i lived in Vietnam. i loved him so much. i raised him from the time he was born until i had to go to America. he was about 1 year somthing. one of the most amazing things about him was, he kept waiting before my room's door after i left, thinking that one day i'll come out of the room and play with him; he didnt eat for a week or so. about a few months after i moved, he died of sickness. there was no medical checkup or special medicine or food care for dogs there. so most of the dogs die pretty early. 10 years for a best friend like that sound really amazing to me.
Okay, you are gonna hate me for my answer, but our chihuahua was 13 when he passed away. He was getting very gray, and you could tell he had arthritis, but other than that he was fine. Some days he would run around like a puppy even. Then one day he just couldn't get out of his bed, and then vomited blood all over the place. We took him in and had him put down. What I'm trying to say is, spend as much time with your dog as possible, cause the end may be very near. And gobbling down his food won't be good for him, so just let him eat at his own pace and don't let any of the others come near him. If he thinks he has to protect his food, he is gonna spend all his energy on doing that, instead of feeling safe and relaxed and eating it. Best of wishes.
dogs do loose there minds as they get older just like humans but i think allot of that has to do with another dog coming into the home, and 15 is pretty old for a dog...
but not all vets are good just like not all human doctors are good you might want to get a second opinion from another vet just to be sure every thing is all well
as far as I can see dr. phil is a dr. also
You need to put the old fellow in a nice quiet room all by himself so he can eat peacefully. He sounds very stressed out, as well. How do the other dogs treat him when it's not feeding time? Keep an eye on him and if they are being harsh towards him, you might need to find him a home where he can live out his last days peacefully.
try feeding him in another room where you can shut the door,
your dog might be just getting aggresive over fear that someone or another animal will still it's food. The Life Expectancy About 15 or more years.(www.dogbreedinfo.com)
But as long as any dog gets taken care of properly they can live alot longer.
Hope this Helped, Best of Luck.
Old age can do that to a dog,But you dont never know what is wrong until he goes to a vet again.I would call the vet to have him looked at and run tests.Good luck with him I know how much he means to you.
It sounds to me as though he may be finding it hard to eat his food, but fearful other dogs will get to it...and thus he growls. He eats when the other dogs are around because in dogdom..it's survival of the fittest (or the one who gets...and keeps...the most food) Thus having other dogs around "motivates" him to eat. Case in point...my newfie mix %26 shepherd eat seperate, she usually grabs a few mouthfuls and wanders away.as soon as the shepherd walks into her area.all the sudden she's got an appitite again and goes running back to her bowl. But your dog may be reaching a point he cannot intake the amount of food he once could.but he doesn't want it to fall into "waiting mouths" either.so he guards it instead.
I'm sure you already feed him several small meals a day.but I would try breaking them down even further if you can. If you feed him 2-3 times a day.try breaking it up into 4-6 times a day in smaller portions and see if this helps.
Try to find some place to isolate him to while he eats.You might try changing his diet.Try some regular people food and see how he does.I wish you both all the best
Sunday, August 2, 2009
My old dogs diet?
One of my older dogs seames to be thin he is 16 and for his age he is in good health we were at the vets wiv him less then a month ago due to him having athrites and the vet seamed to think he was in good health and could not beleve his age. As he gone older he has gone thiner though he has never been a big i am just wondering if any one can suggert a diet for him he can be fussey i been looking sinor diets and they do a light but nothing to put weight on. my friend suggested i put him on a good working dog food as the protine levels are higher then adult or sinor diets do you think this is a good idea he does not require worming hje has been wormed with drontal last mounth and gets womed every 3 months. at the moment he has pedigree sinor dry food in the mornig and chapi dry food mixed with tin in evening and he gets a smako before bed. he is 10 kg and ive tried giving more food in his meals and he just leave it when has enough
Answers:
It can depend on the breed and genetics, but this can happen to a lot of dogs, i don't suggest you put him on a working dogs diet as your dog is old, even if in good shape his kidneys and liver would be under a lot of strain with the amount of protein in a working dogs diet. i would look at the back of the dog food packets and try and go for a high calorie diet, i would generally say ask you vet though as there may be an underlying thyroid problem or something like that i don't want to worry you but I'm just giving options, just contact your vet and they would probably have you in for a consultation and check the symptom. i hope this helps x
same with 100 year old people the body cant take up food so well
thats its age now add olive oil and carrots mushed up to the diet
Wow! Only a few has been as blessed as you are! Your Dog as old as he is and healthy. Most have had strokes nor living, My brother's dog is alive and maybe as old and not thin. I think My brother's dog is older but they feed him kitchen stuff, left overs and also vegetables and everything, along mixed dry dog food and some canned, sometimes. He is healthy and strong. You are Blessed. What ever you are doing, keep on doing because your dog is living far past longer than most dogs of that breed do. Mostly it is 14 years max! Did Doc do a blood and urine work up? Doc should have but you don't want to put extra stress on your dog. You are a wonderfgul companion to your dog as it is to you for it being with you. Give Thanks to God! If no problem exsisted before the vet's office, then don't change anything, My cat is old and I have to feed her more often, not at once, sometimes some chiccken, cooked very well and fattening leftovers mixed with her left overs. feed your dog more without the other dog knowing it, give the other dog dry food and water and try to feed the older dod canned with dfry more often and give the other dog the samne but less because it wuill feel left out smelling the food and will set it into depression. Good luck!
I agree with your friend. Senior diets are crap, I wouldn't let my dogs eat the stuff. A lot of the weight loss is muscle loss, he needs more easily digestible protein to help maintain muscle.
Your friend has somewhat the right idea. but the type of protein is important, the working dog formulas are higher in grain proteins normally, senior dogs do need higher protein but is has to be digestible protein meaning meat inorder to maintain muscle mass, if given too much hard to digest grain protein the kidneys then have to work to harder and you do not want to be stressing the kidneys, which is why meat protein is preferable
The senior food your feed has less protein and therefore has caused a loss of muscle mass
Senior diets are probably one of man worst inventions as it reduces the amount of weight and replaces it with grains. grains convert to sugar when broken down by the body which causes insulins levels to increase and thus causes inflammation and pain in joints.
-----
More Grains, More Insulin, More Inflammation
A highly processed, grain-based diet fed to an animal designed to thrive on a meat-based, fresh food diet is very likely to produce symptoms of ill health over time. Diets to address disease most frequently deal with the symptoms that are the result of a lifetime of inappropriate food, not the true cause of their symptoms. The optimum diet for a dog or a cat should closely resemble their natural diet.
A diet balanced heavily toward grain promotes insulin production and the production of inflammatory chemicals. Over-production of insulin makes it hard for the body to maintain its correct weight, and can lead to diabetes and other problems. An overabundance of inflammatory chemicals means more aches and pains.
Improve the balance of your dog's diet by reducing grain, and you may not need the dangerous non-steroidal and steroid drugs so commonly prescribed for dogs
http://www.mercola.com/2005/feb/5/pets_g...
-------------
Second problem with is senior dogs need more meat protein not less
---------
Proteins consist of chains of amino acids which have several important needs in the dog.
- They maintain the structure of skin, hair, tendons, ligaments, cartilage and nails.
- Protein is needed for the production of new tissue
- Protein maintains normal metabolic processes in the body.
- It is the necessary nutrient for repair of tissues, and this includes the major organs in the body.
If enough protein isn't present in the diet, dogs will lose lean body mass, loss weight, become lethargic, and develop a lowered immune system
While in the past it was believed that excess protein might cause problems in dogs, it has been shown that dogs have the ability to metabolize excess protein. Protein is an essential part of the canine's diet, and is necessary to sustain life and maintain the integrity of the internal organs.
More recent studies show today that it is probably more harmful than it is good to restrict protein in senior dogs, and the high quality proteins are needed for our older pets.
http://b-naturals.com/apr2003.php...
Another question is on protein and senior dogs. Many commercial foods now sell formulas designed specifically for the needs of the senior dog. These are often diets that offer lower protein, but studies show that this can cause more harm than good.
A diet rich in protein is especially important for older dogs. Senior dogs appear less efficient at metabolizing protein, so they require additional protein in their diets to help compensate. In fact, research has shown that healthy older dogs may need as much as 50 percent more protein than normal young healthy adult dogs. (6).
Dr Kronfeld reports that older dogs and dogs with compromised kidneys can easily process high quality proteins. He states that high quality proteins in percentages as high as 54% can actually kill bacteria in the kidneys and create an acidic condition that is healthier for these organs. This would be helpful for urinary tract infections and other bacteria in the dogs system. (2)
Similarly, Dr Bovee鈥檚 research in the mid 1970鈥檚 concluded that high protein levels were more advantageous to dogs with deteriorating kidneys. He reported that the kidney function was much better in dogs fed a diet of 54% protein than 27% protein, for up to two years in his studies. (This study is in complete opposition to the recommendations of the NRC (National Research Council) for low protein for dogs with renal disease.) The same studies concluded that high percentages of protein in the dogs鈥?diet also help to kill bacteria in the urinary tract. (3)
http://b-naturals.com/nov2005.php...
Another myth about protein is that high protein intake causes kidney damage. This myth has also been refuted in a study by Finco at the University of Georgia. Finco showed that feeding senior dogs (dogs over 8 years of age at the outset of the study) a diet containing 36% protein for 4 years (all dogs were over 12 at the end of the study) caused no negative effects on kidney function.
http://mail.royalcanin.ca/faq.nsf/2584c7...
-------
Loss of Muscle Mass
Protein is the building block of muscle tissues. It is important for maintaining muscle tissues, muscle strength and mobility. Recent Eukanuba research has shown that senior dogs who eat a higher-protein diet maintain muscle mass. By feeding your dog a diet with optimal protein levels for muscle maintenance, you can help him continue to be physically active.
This research is contrary to conventional opinion that senior dog foods should contain lower protein levels than adult maintenance formulas in order to avoid progressive decrease in kidney function. Senior dogs who were fed a high-protein diet were shown to have stable kidney function.*
http://us.eukanuba.com/eukanuba/en_us/js...
---------
Lot of the new research on protein has only occured in the last decade and the research is being done on dogs, the old dogfood research was done on rats which are non carnivores and that was how how protein carbs and ratios were determined and the finding are that it does more harm thatn good
As a result new foods are being produced to meet the new research on protein needs and help dog maintain muscle mass keep the insulin level down so they are not suffering from arthritis swelling and pain as they age
example what the new foods are like and what they formulated like as you will note they do not contain grains
http://www.championpetfoods.com/orijen/p...
http://www.evopet.com/products/default.a...
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
Eukanuba, Purina(proplan) increased their protein levels of their senior foods to 26 and 28 % protein(Pedigree is 21%) only problem was they did it the cheap way by using grains which forces the kidneys to work harder to break down ignoring the part of the research that it has to digestible meat proteins
I am guessing you are in the UK so these foods may not be available, you can provide extra meat protein by feeding muscle meats such as raw hamburger, rabbit or chicken ( freeze first then thaw to kill harmful bacteria) or cook very lightly (drop in a pot of boiling water for a couple minutes) don't overcook or it will destroy all the amino acids in the meat, start with just a bit as first(so as not to upset his tummy) and gradually increase the amount fed and reduce the amount of kibble so less grain is fed,
Answers:
It can depend on the breed and genetics, but this can happen to a lot of dogs, i don't suggest you put him on a working dogs diet as your dog is old, even if in good shape his kidneys and liver would be under a lot of strain with the amount of protein in a working dogs diet. i would look at the back of the dog food packets and try and go for a high calorie diet, i would generally say ask you vet though as there may be an underlying thyroid problem or something like that i don't want to worry you but I'm just giving options, just contact your vet and they would probably have you in for a consultation and check the symptom. i hope this helps x
same with 100 year old people the body cant take up food so well
thats its age now add olive oil and carrots mushed up to the diet
Wow! Only a few has been as blessed as you are! Your Dog as old as he is and healthy. Most have had strokes nor living, My brother's dog is alive and maybe as old and not thin. I think My brother's dog is older but they feed him kitchen stuff, left overs and also vegetables and everything, along mixed dry dog food and some canned, sometimes. He is healthy and strong. You are Blessed. What ever you are doing, keep on doing because your dog is living far past longer than most dogs of that breed do. Mostly it is 14 years max! Did Doc do a blood and urine work up? Doc should have but you don't want to put extra stress on your dog. You are a wonderfgul companion to your dog as it is to you for it being with you. Give Thanks to God! If no problem exsisted before the vet's office, then don't change anything, My cat is old and I have to feed her more often, not at once, sometimes some chiccken, cooked very well and fattening leftovers mixed with her left overs. feed your dog more without the other dog knowing it, give the other dog dry food and water and try to feed the older dod canned with dfry more often and give the other dog the samne but less because it wuill feel left out smelling the food and will set it into depression. Good luck!
I agree with your friend. Senior diets are crap, I wouldn't let my dogs eat the stuff. A lot of the weight loss is muscle loss, he needs more easily digestible protein to help maintain muscle.
Your friend has somewhat the right idea. but the type of protein is important, the working dog formulas are higher in grain proteins normally, senior dogs do need higher protein but is has to be digestible protein meaning meat inorder to maintain muscle mass, if given too much hard to digest grain protein the kidneys then have to work to harder and you do not want to be stressing the kidneys, which is why meat protein is preferable
The senior food your feed has less protein and therefore has caused a loss of muscle mass
Senior diets are probably one of man worst inventions as it reduces the amount of weight and replaces it with grains. grains convert to sugar when broken down by the body which causes insulins levels to increase and thus causes inflammation and pain in joints.
-----
More Grains, More Insulin, More Inflammation
A highly processed, grain-based diet fed to an animal designed to thrive on a meat-based, fresh food diet is very likely to produce symptoms of ill health over time. Diets to address disease most frequently deal with the symptoms that are the result of a lifetime of inappropriate food, not the true cause of their symptoms. The optimum diet for a dog or a cat should closely resemble their natural diet.
A diet balanced heavily toward grain promotes insulin production and the production of inflammatory chemicals. Over-production of insulin makes it hard for the body to maintain its correct weight, and can lead to diabetes and other problems. An overabundance of inflammatory chemicals means more aches and pains.
Improve the balance of your dog's diet by reducing grain, and you may not need the dangerous non-steroidal and steroid drugs so commonly prescribed for dogs
http://www.mercola.com/2005/feb/5/pets_g...
-------------
Second problem with is senior dogs need more meat protein not less
---------
Proteins consist of chains of amino acids which have several important needs in the dog.
- They maintain the structure of skin, hair, tendons, ligaments, cartilage and nails.
- Protein is needed for the production of new tissue
- Protein maintains normal metabolic processes in the body.
- It is the necessary nutrient for repair of tissues, and this includes the major organs in the body.
If enough protein isn't present in the diet, dogs will lose lean body mass, loss weight, become lethargic, and develop a lowered immune system
While in the past it was believed that excess protein might cause problems in dogs, it has been shown that dogs have the ability to metabolize excess protein. Protein is an essential part of the canine's diet, and is necessary to sustain life and maintain the integrity of the internal organs.
More recent studies show today that it is probably more harmful than it is good to restrict protein in senior dogs, and the high quality proteins are needed for our older pets.
http://b-naturals.com/apr2003.php...
Another question is on protein and senior dogs. Many commercial foods now sell formulas designed specifically for the needs of the senior dog. These are often diets that offer lower protein, but studies show that this can cause more harm than good.
A diet rich in protein is especially important for older dogs. Senior dogs appear less efficient at metabolizing protein, so they require additional protein in their diets to help compensate. In fact, research has shown that healthy older dogs may need as much as 50 percent more protein than normal young healthy adult dogs. (6).
Dr Kronfeld reports that older dogs and dogs with compromised kidneys can easily process high quality proteins. He states that high quality proteins in percentages as high as 54% can actually kill bacteria in the kidneys and create an acidic condition that is healthier for these organs. This would be helpful for urinary tract infections and other bacteria in the dogs system. (2)
Similarly, Dr Bovee鈥檚 research in the mid 1970鈥檚 concluded that high protein levels were more advantageous to dogs with deteriorating kidneys. He reported that the kidney function was much better in dogs fed a diet of 54% protein than 27% protein, for up to two years in his studies. (This study is in complete opposition to the recommendations of the NRC (National Research Council) for low protein for dogs with renal disease.) The same studies concluded that high percentages of protein in the dogs鈥?diet also help to kill bacteria in the urinary tract. (3)
http://b-naturals.com/nov2005.php...
Another myth about protein is that high protein intake causes kidney damage. This myth has also been refuted in a study by Finco at the University of Georgia. Finco showed that feeding senior dogs (dogs over 8 years of age at the outset of the study) a diet containing 36% protein for 4 years (all dogs were over 12 at the end of the study) caused no negative effects on kidney function.
http://mail.royalcanin.ca/faq.nsf/2584c7...
-------
Loss of Muscle Mass
Protein is the building block of muscle tissues. It is important for maintaining muscle tissues, muscle strength and mobility. Recent Eukanuba research has shown that senior dogs who eat a higher-protein diet maintain muscle mass. By feeding your dog a diet with optimal protein levels for muscle maintenance, you can help him continue to be physically active.
This research is contrary to conventional opinion that senior dog foods should contain lower protein levels than adult maintenance formulas in order to avoid progressive decrease in kidney function. Senior dogs who were fed a high-protein diet were shown to have stable kidney function.*
http://us.eukanuba.com/eukanuba/en_us/js...
---------
Lot of the new research on protein has only occured in the last decade and the research is being done on dogs, the old dogfood research was done on rats which are non carnivores and that was how how protein carbs and ratios were determined and the finding are that it does more harm thatn good
As a result new foods are being produced to meet the new research on protein needs and help dog maintain muscle mass keep the insulin level down so they are not suffering from arthritis swelling and pain as they age
example what the new foods are like and what they formulated like as you will note they do not contain grains
http://www.championpetfoods.com/orijen/p...
http://www.evopet.com/products/default.a...
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
Eukanuba, Purina(proplan) increased their protein levels of their senior foods to 26 and 28 % protein(Pedigree is 21%) only problem was they did it the cheap way by using grains which forces the kidneys to work harder to break down ignoring the part of the research that it has to digestible meat proteins
I am guessing you are in the UK so these foods may not be available, you can provide extra meat protein by feeding muscle meats such as raw hamburger, rabbit or chicken ( freeze first then thaw to kill harmful bacteria) or cook very lightly (drop in a pot of boiling water for a couple minutes) don't overcook or it will destroy all the amino acids in the meat, start with just a bit as first(so as not to upset his tummy) and gradually increase the amount fed and reduce the amount of kibble so less grain is fed,
My old dog!?
He is over 15 years old. I just noticed tonight that his mouth is starting to swell (it has happened twice before) So i administered a pain pill for dogs as well as dental antibiotics that we keep on hand for him. Is this all that I can do for him? He usually gets over it in a couple of days but we caught it earlier than we normally do. Please don't think im cruel or anything but i can't take him to the vet unless he's dieing (that is why we have meds at our house) He was to be euthanized at the pound but we went to court to fight for him...best dog we have ever had everyone we know thinks so too! Anyway he is terrified and he had bad teeth when we got him but otherwise he is so healthy and still plays like a pup...Are there any home treatments besides what im doing that might help him heal faster...he's my buddy and i want him to be as comfortable as possible!
Answers:
My heart stopped 2 second when I read your headline. I thought " oh no please don't tell me" I remember your old baby. Is he eating and drinking water as usual?
You have done the right thing to make him less painful. Please consider "SHADEDTI'S OPTION" and talk to your vet about it. Give him lots love as always and take good care of him and yourself. Keep in touch. You have my support!
Sorry, you really should see a vet. Obviously you have no clue what you're doing and are letting the dog suffer and be in pain. You are cruel.
I feel that as long as he can still swallow and his airway is clear that you shouldn't worry. If he got his meds down and is comfortable then you should be okay. Give him a big old hug for me. Another thing to try is giving him some crushed ice. This may help the swelling and the discomfort in his mouth. I had a cat once with mouth problems and he loved iced water. He would almost lay his whole mouth in it so it must have felt good. Best of luck to you both.
If he's REALLY your "buddy", then take him to the vet, NOW!
Sorry to be cruel but he is 15 years old, and in pain, if you aren't going to provide him with proper vet care and keep him comfortable in his last days, then you really should consider putting him down. Saving a dog is a great thing, but dragging out their life and not providing good quality care is just plain mean..
If you are not a vet how can you judge how much your old dog is suffering. For your own peace of mind you should have him checked ~~
Aww poor baby - I understand you are financially challenged - have you ever discussed with the vet a payment plan ?? My vet is morethan happy to set one up for anyone %26 takes even $20 a month payents - vets want dogs to be as happy and healthy as their human owners - not taking your best buddy in to get checked really isn't a good thing for your pal - a dogs/ animals oral hygine is very important to it's health - excess plaque can be swallow %26 possibily get into the blood stream %26 case strokes , and other such horror stories
Call up your vet or others in the area %26ask around about options- your buddy will thank you for it.
Sounds like your doing all you can, just keep on loving him. Dogs are great friends and dont worry about others opinions. If his mouth cleared up before I am sure it will this time too. Might ask the vet if there is anything else you can do for his condition.
I had a dog like that. He lived to be 23 (Dach/terrier).
This info I'm giving you should be talked over with a vet, because wrong dosages could be fatal:
...
Advil is a drug classified as a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agent. It can be used in dogs but only very carefully at very careful doses. Overdosing is common and can result in serious toxicity.
...
- Ibuprofen is a substituted phenylalkanoic acid with potent analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and antipyretic activity.
- It inhibits prostaglandin synthesis by blocking the conversion of arachidonic acid to prostaglandins.
- Ibuprofen belongs to a general class of drugs known as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAID). Other related drugs in this class include naproxen and ketoprofen.
- Clinically, ibuprofen is most often used to treat arthritis and musculoskeletal pain.
- Following oral administration it is rapidly absorbed. Its bioavailability in dogs is 60 to 86% and it reaches peak serum concentrations in about 2 hours. Ibuprofen is transported 96% bound to plasma protein and has a half-life in dogs of approximately 5 hours.
- Ibuprofen is a non-prescription drug but should ONLY be used under the guidance of a veterinarian. Used improperly, ibuprofen can be highly toxic. Veterinarians may not recommend its use, as there are alternative veterinary drugs approved for the use in animals.
- Ibuprofen is NOT recommended for use in cats
- This drug is not approved for use in animals by the Food and Drug Administration.
- Ibuprofen is available over the counter but should not be administered unless under the supervision of a veterinarian.
Brand Names and Other Names
- This drug is registered for use in humans only.
- Human formulations: Motrin庐 (McNeil), Advil庐 (Whitehall-Robins), Haltran庐 (Lee Pharmaceutical), Midol庐 (Bayer), Menadol庐 (Rugby), PediaCare (Pharmacia %26 Upjohn), and various generic forms of ibuprofen.
- Veterinary formulations: None
Uses of Ibuprofen
- Ibuprofen is used in dogs for analgesia, to reduce swelling or reduction of a fever. It is not recommended for use in cats.
Precautions and Side Effects
- Ibuprofen should not be used unless recommended by your veterinarian.
- Ibuprofen has a narrow therapeutic index in domestic small animals and very small changes in the dosage level can lead to toxicity.
- Ibuprofen should not be used in animals with known hypersensitivity or allergy to the drug, its components, or other NSAIDs.
- Hepatopathy, renal failure, and GI ulceration/perforation have been reported in dogs and cats treated with ibuprofen. Cats are estimated to be twice as sensitive to the toxic effects of ibuprofen because of their limited ability to form glucuronides.
- Signs of impending toxicity include reduced appetite, vomiting (+/- blood), black tarry stools, abdominal pain, dehydration, weakness, and lethargy. Blood loss from GI ulcers may cause anemia. Treatment of toxicity may involve intravenous fluids, activated charcoal (if given within 2 hours of ingestion), and blood transfusion if anemia is severe. Medications such as misoprotol (Ctotec庐), sucralfate (Carafate庐), cimetidine (Tagamet庐) or famotidine (Pepcid庐) can be given to treat gastric ulcers. Blood work is often necessary to evaluate hepatic and renal function before and after treatment of toxicity.
Drug Interactions
Ibuprofen may interact with several medications. If your veterinarian recommends ibuprofen for you pet, make sure you discuss all other medications they are on. Interactions may include:
- Cholestyramine may decrease the effects of NSAIDs.
- Phenobarbital may reduce ibuprofen's half-life by inducing liver enzymes. Dose adjustment may thus be necessary.
- Probenecid may increase the plasma concentration and toxicity of ibuprofen.
- Plasma concentrations of NSAIDs may be decreased by salicylates.
- NSAIDs may decrease the antihypertensive effect of ACE inhibitors and beat blockers.
- Coadministration of NSAIDs and anticoagulants may prolong the prothrombin time.
- The nephrotoxicity of both agents is increased when NSAIDs and cyclosporine are used concomitantly.
- The effects of diuretics may be decreased when administered with ibuprofen.
- NSAIDs tend to increase plasma phenytoin levels, increasing its pharmacologic effect and toxicity.
- NSAIDs increase the risk of methotrexate toxicity.
- NSAIDs may increase plasma theophylline levels.
How Ibuprofen is Supplied
- Tablets: 100 mg, 400 mg, 600 mg, and 800 mg
- Chewable tablets: 50 mg, and 100 mg
- Capsules: 200 mg
- Suspension: 100 mg/5 mL
- Oral drops: 40 mg/mL
Dosing Information
- Medication should never be administered without first consulting your veterinarian.
- The usual dose in dogs is 2.5 to 4 mg per pound (5 to 8 mg/kg) every 12 hours.
- It is NOT recommended for use in cats.
.....
All my info is from http://www.petplace.com/
Check out the website and maybe call up your vet to make sure the medicine is okay for your pooch and the dosage ammounts for your specific breed.
I hope this helps!
If your guy is 15 and gets around, eats and drinks, and has no other problems.. you have the problem.. a tender heart !
Take him to the vet. They will give him a calmative that will not hurt an older dog. your vet will know if he's got a heart that can't take one med over another.
Once he is asleep or very groggy, the vet can look at the teeth and see what needs to be done. She can put him further under so he has no pain, pull what needs to be pulled, stitch or two, clean the others, and wake him up. Put on antibiotics for about 10 days.
The antibiotic is very, very important because the infection from the teeth can infect the kidneys. If you do not take your old man, you may be slowly killing him if he has an infection that he cannot get over because the infection is still there even after the antibiotics you gave.
Also, you may not be giving the correct antibiotic to kill the bacteria in the gums !
When he comes home, you will probably have to soak his kibble
or chop up his homemade food/meat/veggies once the teeth are out.
I just did this to a 14 year old Dalmatian that I rescued. He had 4 teeth pulled and a few stitches. [ I clean the other teeth once a month, so the others were not bad at all. ]
Topper was anesthesized for about 20 minutes - that's all !
He was very groggy, so I let him stay there for about 6 hours - the vet gave him IV fluids so he would not be thirsty and to make him feel better.
I think she gave him Reglan and Vitamin K, too.
I took his clean soft pad to put in the steel cage so he would have good traction. I picked him up about 6 pm and we went home ! He vomited 2 times and slept that night - no food. He could regurgitate, vomit, or something and aspirate the vomit and if it got in his lungs !!! this would cause pneumonia !
He was sore for 3 days and had 2 pain pills a day for 5 days. He ate 4 cans of high calorie gruel in a can from the vet and then Canidae dog food from the can, mashed potatoes, soaked rice, chopped chicken. Watch what is on the recall list as to what is safe.
He is fine ! I promise you ! I think he'll be around to about age 16 - I hope! He's on supplements with MSM, glucosamine, and chondroitin in it along with Vit C, yucca, and enzymes for digestion - make sure it has the MSM in it.
Besides Canidae dog food, fresh chicken %26 carrots or veggies, he needs nothing else.
Your vet can show you how to clean teeth with a scaler, brush, and a solution called * chlorhexadine * to get the tartar off.
Please, do not be afraid. Have some time off, and take him there.. will be the best thing you can do and have him comfortable.
He trusts you to always do what is best for him. So, go do it ! You'll be glad and he'll be happy without those nasty teeth.
Write back and tell us how he did !
Hugs to your Pops !
I will try not to be so aggitated with you so you will understand what the others are trying to tell you. when your dog had the problem before, a lot could have changed within your dogs chemistry, the problem could have compounded, and the meds might not be the right dosage or even be the right med for the problem your dog has not. It does sound like he needs some dental care. 15 is not too old for dental care. My dog lived to 22 and had dental care every year. They put her under and she came out just fine. But bad teeth and bacteria can get in the blood stream and into your dogs heart and cause really awful heart problems and shorten your dogs life even more and make your poor dog even more uncomfortable. Please take your dog to the vet for one last visit to have him checked for his swelling gums and let the vet decide. Then you will feel relief and the dog will be taken care of. Thats all it will take and peace of mind will be yours. I beg you to think that way. give your darling a little doggie downer before going into the vet and no anxiety for him. good luck with your baby he has a long life ahead of him. I will think happy thoughts for both of you. I understand your anxiety but I do know you need to check it out. I have been a veterinary technician for ten years. Stay calm and so will your dog. xx cheers!
just do as usual, best place to die is on our buddy lap not in a lab. you are something and all the bests for you and your buddy.
Why can't you take your dog to a vet unless he's dying? Don't' you have to get the dog his shots like a rabies vaccine when he needs one and a distemper shot too? I'm glad your able to afford a vet but just don't understand just cause your dog is scared or gets upset going there that you can't take him to one. My dog gets scared to but it's an important thing in keeping them healthy. maybe your vet could come out to the house and have a look at him to make sure everything is fine. But I will tell you my dog is 15yrs old to and the day i see him in pain from anything that can't be treated anymore I know I will have to let him go and not be selfish just cause he looks like he's still has that puppy look in his eyes.
Also why would your dog die from having surgery? If he gets over it in a couple of days then don't worry about it I guess cause you say it's happened before. But if you want to do more then call the vet and ask.
Answers:
My heart stopped 2 second when I read your headline. I thought " oh no please don't tell me" I remember your old baby. Is he eating and drinking water as usual?
You have done the right thing to make him less painful. Please consider "SHADEDTI'S OPTION" and talk to your vet about it. Give him lots love as always and take good care of him and yourself. Keep in touch. You have my support!
Sorry, you really should see a vet. Obviously you have no clue what you're doing and are letting the dog suffer and be in pain. You are cruel.
I feel that as long as he can still swallow and his airway is clear that you shouldn't worry. If he got his meds down and is comfortable then you should be okay. Give him a big old hug for me. Another thing to try is giving him some crushed ice. This may help the swelling and the discomfort in his mouth. I had a cat once with mouth problems and he loved iced water. He would almost lay his whole mouth in it so it must have felt good. Best of luck to you both.
If he's REALLY your "buddy", then take him to the vet, NOW!
Sorry to be cruel but he is 15 years old, and in pain, if you aren't going to provide him with proper vet care and keep him comfortable in his last days, then you really should consider putting him down. Saving a dog is a great thing, but dragging out their life and not providing good quality care is just plain mean..
If you are not a vet how can you judge how much your old dog is suffering. For your own peace of mind you should have him checked ~~
Aww poor baby - I understand you are financially challenged - have you ever discussed with the vet a payment plan ?? My vet is morethan happy to set one up for anyone %26 takes even $20 a month payents - vets want dogs to be as happy and healthy as their human owners - not taking your best buddy in to get checked really isn't a good thing for your pal - a dogs/ animals oral hygine is very important to it's health - excess plaque can be swallow %26 possibily get into the blood stream %26 case strokes , and other such horror stories
Call up your vet or others in the area %26ask around about options- your buddy will thank you for it.
Sounds like your doing all you can, just keep on loving him. Dogs are great friends and dont worry about others opinions. If his mouth cleared up before I am sure it will this time too. Might ask the vet if there is anything else you can do for his condition.
I had a dog like that. He lived to be 23 (Dach/terrier).
This info I'm giving you should be talked over with a vet, because wrong dosages could be fatal:
...
Advil is a drug classified as a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agent. It can be used in dogs but only very carefully at very careful doses. Overdosing is common and can result in serious toxicity.
...
- Ibuprofen is a substituted phenylalkanoic acid with potent analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and antipyretic activity.
- It inhibits prostaglandin synthesis by blocking the conversion of arachidonic acid to prostaglandins.
- Ibuprofen belongs to a general class of drugs known as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAID). Other related drugs in this class include naproxen and ketoprofen.
- Clinically, ibuprofen is most often used to treat arthritis and musculoskeletal pain.
- Following oral administration it is rapidly absorbed. Its bioavailability in dogs is 60 to 86% and it reaches peak serum concentrations in about 2 hours. Ibuprofen is transported 96% bound to plasma protein and has a half-life in dogs of approximately 5 hours.
- Ibuprofen is a non-prescription drug but should ONLY be used under the guidance of a veterinarian. Used improperly, ibuprofen can be highly toxic. Veterinarians may not recommend its use, as there are alternative veterinary drugs approved for the use in animals.
- Ibuprofen is NOT recommended for use in cats
- This drug is not approved for use in animals by the Food and Drug Administration.
- Ibuprofen is available over the counter but should not be administered unless under the supervision of a veterinarian.
Brand Names and Other Names
- This drug is registered for use in humans only.
- Human formulations: Motrin庐 (McNeil), Advil庐 (Whitehall-Robins), Haltran庐 (Lee Pharmaceutical), Midol庐 (Bayer), Menadol庐 (Rugby), PediaCare (Pharmacia %26 Upjohn), and various generic forms of ibuprofen.
- Veterinary formulations: None
Uses of Ibuprofen
- Ibuprofen is used in dogs for analgesia, to reduce swelling or reduction of a fever. It is not recommended for use in cats.
Precautions and Side Effects
- Ibuprofen should not be used unless recommended by your veterinarian.
- Ibuprofen has a narrow therapeutic index in domestic small animals and very small changes in the dosage level can lead to toxicity.
- Ibuprofen should not be used in animals with known hypersensitivity or allergy to the drug, its components, or other NSAIDs.
- Hepatopathy, renal failure, and GI ulceration/perforation have been reported in dogs and cats treated with ibuprofen. Cats are estimated to be twice as sensitive to the toxic effects of ibuprofen because of their limited ability to form glucuronides.
- Signs of impending toxicity include reduced appetite, vomiting (+/- blood), black tarry stools, abdominal pain, dehydration, weakness, and lethargy. Blood loss from GI ulcers may cause anemia. Treatment of toxicity may involve intravenous fluids, activated charcoal (if given within 2 hours of ingestion), and blood transfusion if anemia is severe. Medications such as misoprotol (Ctotec庐), sucralfate (Carafate庐), cimetidine (Tagamet庐) or famotidine (Pepcid庐) can be given to treat gastric ulcers. Blood work is often necessary to evaluate hepatic and renal function before and after treatment of toxicity.
Drug Interactions
Ibuprofen may interact with several medications. If your veterinarian recommends ibuprofen for you pet, make sure you discuss all other medications they are on. Interactions may include:
- Cholestyramine may decrease the effects of NSAIDs.
- Phenobarbital may reduce ibuprofen's half-life by inducing liver enzymes. Dose adjustment may thus be necessary.
- Probenecid may increase the plasma concentration and toxicity of ibuprofen.
- Plasma concentrations of NSAIDs may be decreased by salicylates.
- NSAIDs may decrease the antihypertensive effect of ACE inhibitors and beat blockers.
- Coadministration of NSAIDs and anticoagulants may prolong the prothrombin time.
- The nephrotoxicity of both agents is increased when NSAIDs and cyclosporine are used concomitantly.
- The effects of diuretics may be decreased when administered with ibuprofen.
- NSAIDs tend to increase plasma phenytoin levels, increasing its pharmacologic effect and toxicity.
- NSAIDs increase the risk of methotrexate toxicity.
- NSAIDs may increase plasma theophylline levels.
How Ibuprofen is Supplied
- Tablets: 100 mg, 400 mg, 600 mg, and 800 mg
- Chewable tablets: 50 mg, and 100 mg
- Capsules: 200 mg
- Suspension: 100 mg/5 mL
- Oral drops: 40 mg/mL
Dosing Information
- Medication should never be administered without first consulting your veterinarian.
- The usual dose in dogs is 2.5 to 4 mg per pound (5 to 8 mg/kg) every 12 hours.
- It is NOT recommended for use in cats.
.....
All my info is from http://www.petplace.com/
Check out the website and maybe call up your vet to make sure the medicine is okay for your pooch and the dosage ammounts for your specific breed.
I hope this helps!
If your guy is 15 and gets around, eats and drinks, and has no other problems.. you have the problem.. a tender heart !
Take him to the vet. They will give him a calmative that will not hurt an older dog. your vet will know if he's got a heart that can't take one med over another.
Once he is asleep or very groggy, the vet can look at the teeth and see what needs to be done. She can put him further under so he has no pain, pull what needs to be pulled, stitch or two, clean the others, and wake him up. Put on antibiotics for about 10 days.
The antibiotic is very, very important because the infection from the teeth can infect the kidneys. If you do not take your old man, you may be slowly killing him if he has an infection that he cannot get over because the infection is still there even after the antibiotics you gave.
Also, you may not be giving the correct antibiotic to kill the bacteria in the gums !
When he comes home, you will probably have to soak his kibble
or chop up his homemade food/meat/veggies once the teeth are out.
I just did this to a 14 year old Dalmatian that I rescued. He had 4 teeth pulled and a few stitches. [ I clean the other teeth once a month, so the others were not bad at all. ]
Topper was anesthesized for about 20 minutes - that's all !
He was very groggy, so I let him stay there for about 6 hours - the vet gave him IV fluids so he would not be thirsty and to make him feel better.
I think she gave him Reglan and Vitamin K, too.
I took his clean soft pad to put in the steel cage so he would have good traction. I picked him up about 6 pm and we went home ! He vomited 2 times and slept that night - no food. He could regurgitate, vomit, or something and aspirate the vomit and if it got in his lungs !!! this would cause pneumonia !
He was sore for 3 days and had 2 pain pills a day for 5 days. He ate 4 cans of high calorie gruel in a can from the vet and then Canidae dog food from the can, mashed potatoes, soaked rice, chopped chicken. Watch what is on the recall list as to what is safe.
He is fine ! I promise you ! I think he'll be around to about age 16 - I hope! He's on supplements with MSM, glucosamine, and chondroitin in it along with Vit C, yucca, and enzymes for digestion - make sure it has the MSM in it.
Besides Canidae dog food, fresh chicken %26 carrots or veggies, he needs nothing else.
Your vet can show you how to clean teeth with a scaler, brush, and a solution called * chlorhexadine * to get the tartar off.
Please, do not be afraid. Have some time off, and take him there.. will be the best thing you can do and have him comfortable.
He trusts you to always do what is best for him. So, go do it ! You'll be glad and he'll be happy without those nasty teeth.
Write back and tell us how he did !
Hugs to your Pops !
I will try not to be so aggitated with you so you will understand what the others are trying to tell you. when your dog had the problem before, a lot could have changed within your dogs chemistry, the problem could have compounded, and the meds might not be the right dosage or even be the right med for the problem your dog has not. It does sound like he needs some dental care. 15 is not too old for dental care. My dog lived to 22 and had dental care every year. They put her under and she came out just fine. But bad teeth and bacteria can get in the blood stream and into your dogs heart and cause really awful heart problems and shorten your dogs life even more and make your poor dog even more uncomfortable. Please take your dog to the vet for one last visit to have him checked for his swelling gums and let the vet decide. Then you will feel relief and the dog will be taken care of. Thats all it will take and peace of mind will be yours. I beg you to think that way. give your darling a little doggie downer before going into the vet and no anxiety for him. good luck with your baby he has a long life ahead of him. I will think happy thoughts for both of you. I understand your anxiety but I do know you need to check it out. I have been a veterinary technician for ten years. Stay calm and so will your dog. xx cheers!
just do as usual, best place to die is on our buddy lap not in a lab. you are something and all the bests for you and your buddy.
Why can't you take your dog to a vet unless he's dying? Don't' you have to get the dog his shots like a rabies vaccine when he needs one and a distemper shot too? I'm glad your able to afford a vet but just don't understand just cause your dog is scared or gets upset going there that you can't take him to one. My dog gets scared to but it's an important thing in keeping them healthy. maybe your vet could come out to the house and have a look at him to make sure everything is fine. But I will tell you my dog is 15yrs old to and the day i see him in pain from anything that can't be treated anymore I know I will have to let him go and not be selfish just cause he looks like he's still has that puppy look in his eyes.
Also why would your dog die from having surgery? If he gets over it in a couple of days then don't worry about it I guess cause you say it's happened before. But if you want to do more then call the vet and ask.
My old dog (again)?
So I just asked a question about him but im worried again! So he is over 15. We just recently started getting boxes to move. I walked into the dark room and found him sitting in the middle of all the boxes wagging his tail. What was this all about? He has been through several moves with us and goes traveling w/ us for weeks at a time so its nothing new. Is this just another sign of his mind "going" for lack of a better term? He forgets when he eats and refuses to leave my side...Please help!! Im worried about my old guy!
Answers:
Well he is an "old guy"..He is like 105 years old in our years.
Remember there are 7 years to our 1 year. They get very "clingy" as they get older, and yes they do some strange things as well sometimes. If you are concerned about him, please take him to the vet and get him checked out!!
maybe youre dog is getting old and is tired doing something or moving around too much . well if youre dog tail is stil wagging and barkin maybe he just playing with you just beingin happy to found home in there.
He is insecure. He is worried you will leave him. Be nice to him and hug him a lot and pet him. Let him stay close to you to comfort him.
i would schedule an appointment with the vet so all your questions will be answered and maybe they can tell you if anything is wrong. good luck!
It's hard to say why... Dogs can have so many weird reasons why they do things. My dog sometimes lays on the tile of the bathroom floor when it's hot, because it keeps her cool. My other dog lays on the kitchen floor when he does't feel well. It's so hard to say. Perhaps you should take him to the vet, they can run few tests and see if there may be a physical reason. Maybe the vet can give him something to help.
My dog is l3, he is always tired and insecure, he likes tailing me everywhere inside my house, but i understand him, so i allowed him that way, what i really observed my dog is he is always terrified to loud sound, he doesn't like being left alone,So as the dog owner, i tend to show more care and love this time that he is old, just let him feel that even if he is old, we will not abandon him.
Your animal knows something is up.You stated he has been through several moves before.
How do you know he forgets when he eats?
He is either hungry or not.
Eating extra could be boredom or anxiety.
Lack of appetite could have to do with age,health or the activity of yet another move.
When animals look for dark places, in some cases they are not feeling well %26 may warrant a vet exam.Refusing to leave your side may be anxiety or he is efforting to tell you something may be wrong.Consider a check up and also extra attention to assure him all is okay.
Dogs can sense things from you. He knows whats going on because he sees boxes. Just love on him and let him know its okay.
But i agree with others if your old dog is acting noticeable different to you take him to the vet to be checked out again, it can maybe give you peace of mine
I have an 11 yr old lab, so I understand the worrying. I think the fact that he was sitting and wagging his tail is a good thing. He was alert enough to see that something new was going on, probably smelling the boxes, and was just exploring! I will tell you this, if he is having trouble with arthritis, or just seeming not to want to be as mobile as he use to be, we were recently told to give our old girl..Ascription every other day! She seems to feel better all the way around, much more active within 48 hours of her first pill! It is basically aspirin, coated with Imodium, so that it won't hurt the tummy. The friend that told me that was a vet... so I trust the advise.
I know your worried, because we know the life expectancy for our friends... but enjoy him... his tail is wagging, so he is enjoying!
Good luck to you!
I suggest you visit http://www.dogsvets.net and consult a breed expert for free
Some vets will make house calls may want to check around for one that does, the smells at the vets office tends to be what triggers there memories of being left there for a procedure rather than being fearful of the vet himself,
As for menta fuction there is prescription drug treatment treatment for http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com/dogs/...
Ive met people younger than him (his age in dog years) who do alot of stranger things.. I would think maybe he felt like he was being ignored while you were moving, and figured you needed a break to give him some good petting on.
Answers:
Well he is an "old guy"..He is like 105 years old in our years.
Remember there are 7 years to our 1 year. They get very "clingy" as they get older, and yes they do some strange things as well sometimes. If you are concerned about him, please take him to the vet and get him checked out!!
maybe youre dog is getting old and is tired doing something or moving around too much . well if youre dog tail is stil wagging and barkin maybe he just playing with you just beingin happy to found home in there.
He is insecure. He is worried you will leave him. Be nice to him and hug him a lot and pet him. Let him stay close to you to comfort him.
i would schedule an appointment with the vet so all your questions will be answered and maybe they can tell you if anything is wrong. good luck!
It's hard to say why... Dogs can have so many weird reasons why they do things. My dog sometimes lays on the tile of the bathroom floor when it's hot, because it keeps her cool. My other dog lays on the kitchen floor when he does't feel well. It's so hard to say. Perhaps you should take him to the vet, they can run few tests and see if there may be a physical reason. Maybe the vet can give him something to help.
My dog is l3, he is always tired and insecure, he likes tailing me everywhere inside my house, but i understand him, so i allowed him that way, what i really observed my dog is he is always terrified to loud sound, he doesn't like being left alone,So as the dog owner, i tend to show more care and love this time that he is old, just let him feel that even if he is old, we will not abandon him.
Your animal knows something is up.You stated he has been through several moves before.
How do you know he forgets when he eats?
He is either hungry or not.
Eating extra could be boredom or anxiety.
Lack of appetite could have to do with age,health or the activity of yet another move.
When animals look for dark places, in some cases they are not feeling well %26 may warrant a vet exam.Refusing to leave your side may be anxiety or he is efforting to tell you something may be wrong.Consider a check up and also extra attention to assure him all is okay.
Dogs can sense things from you. He knows whats going on because he sees boxes. Just love on him and let him know its okay.
But i agree with others if your old dog is acting noticeable different to you take him to the vet to be checked out again, it can maybe give you peace of mine
I have an 11 yr old lab, so I understand the worrying. I think the fact that he was sitting and wagging his tail is a good thing. He was alert enough to see that something new was going on, probably smelling the boxes, and was just exploring! I will tell you this, if he is having trouble with arthritis, or just seeming not to want to be as mobile as he use to be, we were recently told to give our old girl..Ascription every other day! She seems to feel better all the way around, much more active within 48 hours of her first pill! It is basically aspirin, coated with Imodium, so that it won't hurt the tummy. The friend that told me that was a vet... so I trust the advise.
I know your worried, because we know the life expectancy for our friends... but enjoy him... his tail is wagging, so he is enjoying!
Good luck to you!
I suggest you visit http://www.dogsvets.net and consult a breed expert for free
Some vets will make house calls may want to check around for one that does, the smells at the vets office tends to be what triggers there memories of being left there for a procedure rather than being fearful of the vet himself,
As for menta fuction there is prescription drug treatment treatment for http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com/dogs/...
Ive met people younger than him (his age in dog years) who do alot of stranger things.. I would think maybe he felt like he was being ignored while you were moving, and figured you needed a break to give him some good petting on.
My nursing ***** has alot of ticks in her ears how should I remove them?
Answers:
"*Grab the tick by the head or mouth parts right where they enter the skin. Do not grasp the tick by the body.
*Without jerking, pull firmly and steadily directly outward. Do not twist the tick as you are pulling.
*Using methods such as applying petroleum jelly, a hot match, or alcohol will NOT cause the tick to 'back out.' In fact, these irritants may cause the tick to deposit more disease-carrying saliva in the wound.
*After removing the tick, place it in a jar of alcohol to kill it. Ticks are NOT killed by flushing them down the toilet.
*Clean the bite wound with a disinfectant. If you want to, apply a small amount of a triple antibiotic ointment. "
You may also want to use a tick control product, such as Frontline to prevent infestation. "Approved for use on pregnant or nursing mothers (approved for Frontline Plus and Top Spot庐 only)" - the spray has not been approved.
take your beeyotch to a dog grooming parlor and tell them you want her ears cleaned, etc.
I've always used Vasoline for ticks. Just spread it over them and they have to get out to breathe.
i always just pull my dogs ticks out -
grip as close to the dogs skin as possible - and yank one time real fast - it always gets the head out -then smash or drown them in a cup of water n flush down the drain- they say you can put clear polish on them and they will back out but mine never do - so i have resorted to pulling them -
however you decide to remove them make sure she is outside not near the puppies so that the ticks do no go to another dog if you were to drop one
If you can reach them, try this. Take a q-tip and sopak it in methalated spirikts, then drop some onto the tick's head. Don't attempt to pull it out since that mostly leaves the head behind and can get infected.
My new puppy?
i got a king charles/cocker spaniel cross puppy last week and shes good enough but lately shes wont stop biting peoples feet or biting my shoes when im walking and its making my younger siblings terrified of her.also shes nearly house trained but every night she does about 5 or 6 poos which i have to clean up first thing in the morning,not very nice!im not sure how to train her to stop going at night or biting people.
Answers:
Well you have a small do so they are easy to train.
For the biting problem you have to get a water spray bottle, Create the action that causes the behaviour, when she bites squirt her with the water and say 'NO!' Don't use her name that will only confuse her. (this tells the dog her behaviour is bad).
Before you go to bed take her for a very long walk, and make sure she gets 'pooped out' (bet you didn't know where that came from) Then feed her and go to bed (one feeding per day) First thing in the morning take her out 'to get it out' (don't forget to praise her for a job well done). Dogs have an 8 hour digestive system so no more poo for you, if you follow my instructions.
Ewwwww dutty little dogs pooing everywhere, women?
For the biting u can either grab her by the snout and hold her mouth shut and tell her NO! loudly. Or get something called "biter apple" and when she bites spray it and she'll get surprised. It always works.
start crate trainging her now. Always put her away when people are there...She needs to know she has a time out space when she is in trouble.
about biting people...
they are teething like babies do so make sure you give them lots of toys! They bite because they don't feel confortable while their baby teeth are coming out...just like a baby
I have a sheperd mix and she does the same thing.its just a phase that all dogs go through.
You need to get her a crate and keep her in it over night. Dogs naturally don't want to go where they sleep. This teaches her to "hold it" until morning.
there's a reason you should not allow this behavior any more. Here's how to stop a puppy's nipping and biting...
While all puppies nibble and bite on your hands, your ankles, and everything else they can get their mouth on, you should not permit this behavior with you (or other people) for this one reason:
Biting says, "I'm more dominant than you."
Biting at a person's hand is the puppy's way of testing their dominance in the pack. (Yes, you are part of his "pack" now.)
Since there should never be any question that YOU are the Alpha dog, from this day forward you must never allow a puppy to nibble or bite at your hands (or feet).
How To Stop The Nipping
To break a puppy from nipping or biting:
Use your thumb and forefinger to roll the puppy's top lips under his teeth so that he bites down on them.
The puppy will whimper after he's bit his lip.
At the same time, you should adamantly say "NO!".
The trick is consistency. From this point forward, you should never let your puppy mouth on peoples' hands or nip at any other person from now on.
...It won't take long before puppy gets the message!
5-6 poops at night---wow!---if you are feeding her at night stop and take all water away after 8pm---if this doesn't help take her to a vet---this is not normal---a dog may poop 3 times a day roughly
for the biting maybe the pup is teething---try doggie teething ice rings, hard chew toys etc. and also try using the anti=chew spray (taste bitter to dogs) and spraying it on the areas the dog chews (the spray can be purchased at places like petco and petsmart)
well first off if she is biting everytime she goes to bite. give her a nice little swat..lol.. and about the pooing at night. evrytime she goes and you find it in the morning. take her over to it, and disapline her. and then when she has to go. put her outside.
Look up "crate training" with regard to the bathroom issues.
It is the process of teaching a dog to go into its crate on command and to be comfortable there while enclosed. Dogs, like all canines, are den-dwelling animals by instinct and a crate becomes a den substitute, providing a familiar and safe haven for the dog. A crate-trained dog benefits the dog and the dog's owner in a number of ways. A dog typically will not use the bathroom in its own crate and will learn to "go" where it is appropriate- for instance, outside.
As for the biting, you have to be diligent in telling the dog "no" and never letting him/her chew human articles or body parts. Diligence is the key. Be stern.
Good luck.
Well first off, when she bits say "No!" and give her a tap on her mouth. For the pooing problem. Get a cage and put her in the cage everynight and when you go out. So if she goes to the bathroom it's in one area. Also get up half way through your sleep to let her go to the bathroom. Also let her out a half hour after every meal, and let her out every 2 hours... I did this with my puppy, and he's a great dog!
dont let her watch T.V, by watching bad channels, she is behaving like this.
When she bites, just say "no" firmly. "Hey," "stop it" and the like work too. She'll figure out that you don't like it. Of course, give her toys. With pooping, that may be something you have to deal with. Crate training will help get her on a schedule, but you can't force her to hold her bowels at night. When you gotta go, you gotta go...
EDIT: Puppies can hold it for less time than adult dogs, so patience is a virtue here. Praise her a LOT when she poops when/where you want her to, and don't ever try to show her something she did and punish her. You have to catch her in the act.
Try and not feed her after 7.30/8.00pm at night depending on what time you go to bed. Also take her out for a 10 minute walk even if its in the garden just before you go to bed and keep repeating the word you use for her to go to the tiolet (ie I use hurry up for my boys when I was training mine) My dogs also sleep in crates and they tend not to poo in there own bed, some people do not agree with them but I swear by the crate training. Every night when I say bed time they automatically just go and get into the crate and they know it is time to go to sleep.
With regards to the biting I did not have this problem with my boys but I did have problems with barking so I put a few stones into a coke bottle and everytime they barked unnecessarily I shook it above there head and said no. Now they only tend to bark when they are telling me someone is at the door or at the back garden.
I hope this helps keep persevering the puppy is only pushing boundaries at the moment. Keep showing him that you are top dog not him
I have a king charles too. She's teething, hence her tendency to bite is strong... Give her lots of chew toys to distract her. Whenever she does bite, smack her lightly on her muzzle and give a firm 'NO BITING' and give her a chew toy instead. Praise her when she starts chewin on her toy and nt at your ankles/shoes. She'll soon learn that biting people's feet and shoes are a NONO.
You could try taking your dog for a walk right after her last meal of the day to allow her to relieve herself. After a while, she'll get used to the routine of pooing OUTSIDE the house. Just to let you know, puppies have the tendency to have weak bowel system. Wouldn last for long. Diet do play a part too. Would be good to keep strictly to dry dog food (healthier) . Refrain from feeding it with human food when its still a pup. Might trigger off some diahorrea symtoms in the dog.
the reason she's biting is probably because she's teething so get a chew toy and when she starts biting give her it then walk away slowly and don't run. As for the poop at night lock her up somewhere like the garage or laundry room sure she might bark a little but after a while she'll stop. In the morning the first person up should feed her then put her outside then after she has done her business bring her back inside. Also let her out before yall go to bed so she is sure not to poop at all! Keep doing this procedure every night , but also make sure you put her in the same place every time. That place will become their general area and dogs don't uranate in their area. After a couple of weeks she should be broken of the habbit but keep doing that same thing every night and morning or she will just go back into the habbit again.
Puppy's like to play just like children and when we train our children to something we do the same for the puppy speak a firm tone of voice and and say stop. Also tell your children to do the same.. Be sure to point at the pup if you have to he thinks he is playing. Puppys grow fast and need the training you give him. Kids need to help train him. Let the pup know you are the boss not it. If this does not work then use the ruff sound in your voice and touch the puppy not hit but touch him like hold him still and say NO! or STOP! it takes time and practice when the puppy sees the kids run and cry or laugh it gets him excited and thinks well this is all right. It does need to stop. as far as the wetting in the floor I take up the food before to late and take out to walk or in the back yard before going to bed and let out first thing in the morning also. Praise hime when he does it outside by good dog and pet him . or scarch him just enough to let him know that is good. You can also asigned the kids a job to do to help with the dog by letting outside and choires for if they are to have a pet they are to help to... hope this helps some .. have a good day. Oh Yes Watch dog wisperior on tv and the internet. GREAT SHOW AND HELPS WITH DOG OWNERS.. YOU LEARN ALOT FROM HIM...YOU ARE THE LEADER...SMILE
Answers:
Well you have a small do so they are easy to train.
For the biting problem you have to get a water spray bottle, Create the action that causes the behaviour, when she bites squirt her with the water and say 'NO!' Don't use her name that will only confuse her. (this tells the dog her behaviour is bad).
Before you go to bed take her for a very long walk, and make sure she gets 'pooped out' (bet you didn't know where that came from) Then feed her and go to bed (one feeding per day) First thing in the morning take her out 'to get it out' (don't forget to praise her for a job well done). Dogs have an 8 hour digestive system so no more poo for you, if you follow my instructions.
Ewwwww dutty little dogs pooing everywhere, women?
For the biting u can either grab her by the snout and hold her mouth shut and tell her NO! loudly. Or get something called "biter apple" and when she bites spray it and she'll get surprised. It always works.
start crate trainging her now. Always put her away when people are there...She needs to know she has a time out space when she is in trouble.
about biting people...
they are teething like babies do so make sure you give them lots of toys! They bite because they don't feel confortable while their baby teeth are coming out...just like a baby
I have a sheperd mix and she does the same thing.its just a phase that all dogs go through.
You need to get her a crate and keep her in it over night. Dogs naturally don't want to go where they sleep. This teaches her to "hold it" until morning.
there's a reason you should not allow this behavior any more. Here's how to stop a puppy's nipping and biting...
While all puppies nibble and bite on your hands, your ankles, and everything else they can get their mouth on, you should not permit this behavior with you (or other people) for this one reason:
Biting says, "I'm more dominant than you."
Biting at a person's hand is the puppy's way of testing their dominance in the pack. (Yes, you are part of his "pack" now.)
Since there should never be any question that YOU are the Alpha dog, from this day forward you must never allow a puppy to nibble or bite at your hands (or feet).
How To Stop The Nipping
To break a puppy from nipping or biting:
Use your thumb and forefinger to roll the puppy's top lips under his teeth so that he bites down on them.
The puppy will whimper after he's bit his lip.
At the same time, you should adamantly say "NO!".
The trick is consistency. From this point forward, you should never let your puppy mouth on peoples' hands or nip at any other person from now on.
...It won't take long before puppy gets the message!
5-6 poops at night---wow!---if you are feeding her at night stop and take all water away after 8pm---if this doesn't help take her to a vet---this is not normal---a dog may poop 3 times a day roughly
for the biting maybe the pup is teething---try doggie teething ice rings, hard chew toys etc. and also try using the anti=chew spray (taste bitter to dogs) and spraying it on the areas the dog chews (the spray can be purchased at places like petco and petsmart)
well first off if she is biting everytime she goes to bite. give her a nice little swat..lol.. and about the pooing at night. evrytime she goes and you find it in the morning. take her over to it, and disapline her. and then when she has to go. put her outside.
Look up "crate training" with regard to the bathroom issues.
It is the process of teaching a dog to go into its crate on command and to be comfortable there while enclosed. Dogs, like all canines, are den-dwelling animals by instinct and a crate becomes a den substitute, providing a familiar and safe haven for the dog. A crate-trained dog benefits the dog and the dog's owner in a number of ways. A dog typically will not use the bathroom in its own crate and will learn to "go" where it is appropriate- for instance, outside.
As for the biting, you have to be diligent in telling the dog "no" and never letting him/her chew human articles or body parts. Diligence is the key. Be stern.
Good luck.
Well first off, when she bits say "No!" and give her a tap on her mouth. For the pooing problem. Get a cage and put her in the cage everynight and when you go out. So if she goes to the bathroom it's in one area. Also get up half way through your sleep to let her go to the bathroom. Also let her out a half hour after every meal, and let her out every 2 hours... I did this with my puppy, and he's a great dog!
dont let her watch T.V, by watching bad channels, she is behaving like this.
When she bites, just say "no" firmly. "Hey," "stop it" and the like work too. She'll figure out that you don't like it. Of course, give her toys. With pooping, that may be something you have to deal with. Crate training will help get her on a schedule, but you can't force her to hold her bowels at night. When you gotta go, you gotta go...
EDIT: Puppies can hold it for less time than adult dogs, so patience is a virtue here. Praise her a LOT when she poops when/where you want her to, and don't ever try to show her something she did and punish her. You have to catch her in the act.
Try and not feed her after 7.30/8.00pm at night depending on what time you go to bed. Also take her out for a 10 minute walk even if its in the garden just before you go to bed and keep repeating the word you use for her to go to the tiolet (ie I use hurry up for my boys when I was training mine) My dogs also sleep in crates and they tend not to poo in there own bed, some people do not agree with them but I swear by the crate training. Every night when I say bed time they automatically just go and get into the crate and they know it is time to go to sleep.
With regards to the biting I did not have this problem with my boys but I did have problems with barking so I put a few stones into a coke bottle and everytime they barked unnecessarily I shook it above there head and said no. Now they only tend to bark when they are telling me someone is at the door or at the back garden.
I hope this helps keep persevering the puppy is only pushing boundaries at the moment. Keep showing him that you are top dog not him
I have a king charles too. She's teething, hence her tendency to bite is strong... Give her lots of chew toys to distract her. Whenever she does bite, smack her lightly on her muzzle and give a firm 'NO BITING' and give her a chew toy instead. Praise her when she starts chewin on her toy and nt at your ankles/shoes. She'll soon learn that biting people's feet and shoes are a NONO.
You could try taking your dog for a walk right after her last meal of the day to allow her to relieve herself. After a while, she'll get used to the routine of pooing OUTSIDE the house. Just to let you know, puppies have the tendency to have weak bowel system. Wouldn last for long. Diet do play a part too. Would be good to keep strictly to dry dog food (healthier) . Refrain from feeding it with human food when its still a pup. Might trigger off some diahorrea symtoms in the dog.
the reason she's biting is probably because she's teething so get a chew toy and when she starts biting give her it then walk away slowly and don't run. As for the poop at night lock her up somewhere like the garage or laundry room sure she might bark a little but after a while she'll stop. In the morning the first person up should feed her then put her outside then after she has done her business bring her back inside. Also let her out before yall go to bed so she is sure not to poop at all! Keep doing this procedure every night , but also make sure you put her in the same place every time. That place will become their general area and dogs don't uranate in their area. After a couple of weeks she should be broken of the habbit but keep doing that same thing every night and morning or she will just go back into the habbit again.
Puppy's like to play just like children and when we train our children to something we do the same for the puppy speak a firm tone of voice and and say stop. Also tell your children to do the same.. Be sure to point at the pup if you have to he thinks he is playing. Puppys grow fast and need the training you give him. Kids need to help train him. Let the pup know you are the boss not it. If this does not work then use the ruff sound in your voice and touch the puppy not hit but touch him like hold him still and say NO! or STOP! it takes time and practice when the puppy sees the kids run and cry or laugh it gets him excited and thinks well this is all right. It does need to stop. as far as the wetting in the floor I take up the food before to late and take out to walk or in the back yard before going to bed and let out first thing in the morning also. Praise hime when he does it outside by good dog and pet him . or scarch him just enough to let him know that is good. You can also asigned the kids a job to do to help with the dog by letting outside and choires for if they are to have a pet they are to help to... hope this helps some .. have a good day. Oh Yes Watch dog wisperior on tv and the internet. GREAT SHOW AND HELPS WITH DOG OWNERS.. YOU LEARN ALOT FROM HIM...YOU ARE THE LEADER...SMILE
My new puppy won't stop peeing on the carpet! Help!?
I got my new puppy on Tuesday. She is a 6 months old Chihuahua. I bought the training pads for her but she refuses to go on them. She went #1, and #2 on it once but that was it. I bring her to the pad everytime I see her sniffing around, also when we wake up, before we go to bed, and after she eats. But nothing seems to help. I have tried to clena the area in the carpet with the deoderizers that I got from Petsmart along with a spray to tell her where she can go. I have put a baby gate up to keep her in the kitchen but she refuses to go there also. I am wanting her to only go to the bathroom inside the house. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
Answers:
well every puppy is a comotion, of course they will pee everywhere.
There are many diffrent methods of handling this. If u have a dog trainer, tell them and they have good methods.
What I know is what I learned with my dog when he was a pup. everytime he pees tell him no in a little stern way and put him out side or a little time out area for a minute so the dog knows it is doing something wrong.
also what u have to do is watch him like all the time. Everytime it looks as if he's going to pee, take him outside and stay with him until he performs then praise him to the skies. If he does pee in the house, you need to remove every trace of urine or he'll keep using that spot. You should also reward him every time the dog pees outside. There are many ways like I said. Teaching a pup isn't eay but they will eventually learn. I am a dog lover so I no a lot about dogs. I have listed links of my source and they will hopefully help u. Good luck :)
get her into a training class, quick
what? u want her to go only inside your house? it should be outside, and get a trainer
6 months she is still a pup and may require a little more time.
I know you said you want her to go in the bathroom but, is there a reason why you don't take her outside to go? Grass is ten times better than a puppy pad. I have to take my puppy down three flights of stairs every three hours to pee but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Get a crate and crate train - it is much much faster that way. Puppy pads don't work, I've tried em too.
Hi there! I have a new puppy and I have been having similar problems. I found a product called Odorcide. It has really worked great. My puppy started using the same spots my former dog had a few accidents in. This product will work on any surface , and eliminates the odor from the carpet and pad. I tried everything from the pet stores and nothing worked. This has really done a great job and it also did a great job of removing all other odors from the carpet. I have only had it a couple of weeks but I can already tell it has made a huge difference. I can't remember the name of the site but I think I just typed in Odorcide and found it.
Answers:
well every puppy is a comotion, of course they will pee everywhere.
There are many diffrent methods of handling this. If u have a dog trainer, tell them and they have good methods.
What I know is what I learned with my dog when he was a pup. everytime he pees tell him no in a little stern way and put him out side or a little time out area for a minute so the dog knows it is doing something wrong.
also what u have to do is watch him like all the time. Everytime it looks as if he's going to pee, take him outside and stay with him until he performs then praise him to the skies. If he does pee in the house, you need to remove every trace of urine or he'll keep using that spot. You should also reward him every time the dog pees outside. There are many ways like I said. Teaching a pup isn't eay but they will eventually learn. I am a dog lover so I no a lot about dogs. I have listed links of my source and they will hopefully help u. Good luck :)
get her into a training class, quick
what? u want her to go only inside your house? it should be outside, and get a trainer
6 months she is still a pup and may require a little more time.
I know you said you want her to go in the bathroom but, is there a reason why you don't take her outside to go? Grass is ten times better than a puppy pad. I have to take my puppy down three flights of stairs every three hours to pee but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Get a crate and crate train - it is much much faster that way. Puppy pads don't work, I've tried em too.
Hi there! I have a new puppy and I have been having similar problems. I found a product called Odorcide. It has really worked great. My puppy started using the same spots my former dog had a few accidents in. This product will work on any surface , and eliminates the odor from the carpet and pad. I tried everything from the pet stores and nothing worked. This has really done a great job and it also did a great job of removing all other odors from the carpet. I have only had it a couple of weeks but I can already tell it has made a huge difference. I can't remember the name of the site but I think I just typed in Odorcide and found it.
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